- Taking The Temperature of Magnum Sales
- Top Wine & Spirits Books of 2017
- Next Gen Shall Be Served
- JAVA JOINS THE PARTY – COFFEE-INFUSED COCKTAILS ROCK
- Gaining Grounds: Midscale Hotels Promote Premium Coffee in Hotel Mgt Magazine
- CRU – S CONTROL – 10 GEMS FROM BEAUJOLAIS
- 3 St. Paul de Vence Restaurants To Visit After Maeght
- Torrentés Wine, Moving Out of Malbec’s Shadow
- LIFE IMITATES ART – A FRENCH FINISH
- A French Finish by Robert Ross Now On Kindle
- NYC Retail [Re-]Openings Under The Microscope
- Immigrant Retailers Add Spice on Main Street
- Lafayette’s Hermione: A TransAtlantic Story – SEA HISTORY Magazine
- Rhône Revival
- Je Suis John Locke
- Bubbling To The Top – Champagne’s Revival
- Lafayette – Hero of Two Worlds
- Countrified Cocktailian – fish & game’s Kat Dunn
- POP STAR: Belinda Chang, Moet’s New Champagne “Charlie”
- Do you know what a bottle slider is? Hint: It’s silver and wood!
- 2009 Burgundy Vintage
- A French Finish
- Alexander Dumas
- Amador County
- American Menus
- American Revolution
- American Whiskey
- Andre Daguin
- Ariane Daguin
- Artisanal beer
- Auch France
- Bastille Day
- Belinda Chang
- Beverage Media
- Bodegas del Palacio de Fefiñanes
- Book Review
- Bordeaux Classified Growth
- Bourgogne vins
- Brooklyn NY
- Cabernet Franc
- California Wine
- Champagne Charlie
- Chateau d'Esclans
- Chateau Montus
- Classic Cocktails
- Clipper Ships
- Cocktail History
- Colares Wines
- Craft Beer
- Culinary History
- D'Artagnan and the 3 Musketeers
- D'Artagnan foie gras
- Danny Meyer
- David Wondrich
- Duck breast magret
- Fast Food
- Fingert Lake wine region in New York
- Flavored spirits
- Flavored Vodka
- Flavored Whiskey
- French History
- French wine
- Fresh game and foie gras
- Gabriel Meffre
- Gen Z
- Gen Z and Millennial drinkers
- Gen Z'ers Love Wine
- George Washington
- George Washinton
- Grape Collective
- Helen Turley
- Hermione Frigate
- Hudson River Valley
- Hudson Valley Foie Gras
- Italian food
- Italian wine
- Jancis Robinson
- Jim Beam
- John Locke
- John Mariani
- Jose Cuervo
- Ketel One
- King Louis XIV
- L'Hermione fregate
- Lafayette College
- Laplace Madiran
- Le District
- Le Vieux Moulin St. Paul de Vence
- Lee Brian Schrager
- Locally brewed beer
- Louis XVI
- Maeght Foundation
- Manhattan Wine Stores
- Maple Syrup
- Martin Woodhouse
- Medoc wines
- Menu collecting
- Menu Design
- Moet & Chandon
- Mom-and-Pop Retailers
- Mount Vernon
- Mystery series
- New York
- New York State wine
- Park Avenue Liquor Shop
- Patrick Leon Winemaker
- Pauillac Second Growths
- Petite Syrah
- Portuguese History
- Potager du Roi
- Quita do Noval
- Ramisco grape
- Red Stag
- Religious Toleration
- Rhone Valley
- Rhone Wine
- Rias Baixas wines
- Richard Coraine
- Robert Ross
- Rose wine
- Sacha Lichine
- South Beach Wine & Food Festival
- Southern Wine & Spirits of America
- Southwest France
- Spanish wine
- St. Paul de Vence
- The Biz of Fizz
- The Daily Beast
- The Medici Emerald
- The Medici Guns
- The Medici Hawks
- The Queen of Foie Gras
- Tipping Point for boozy spirits
- Union Square Hospitality Group
- Washington and Lafayette
- Whispering Angel Rose
- White Port
- White Port & Tonic
- White Port Wine Cocktail
- Wine Business
- Wine Disciples Wine Bar
- Winter Beer
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Top Wine & Spirits Books of 2017
Today’s Internet-driven world is not making it easy for books. And yet, these paper-based content providers persist— and some might argue are sharper than ever thanks to their cyber-based competition. Here are highlights from among 2017 releases— each with a compelling raison d’etre.
In Vino Duplicitas: The Rise and Fall of a Wine Forger Extraordinaire, Peter Hellman Workman Books, July 2017, $25.95 This detailed, gripping account unravels the biggest wine caper in decades, documenting how a clever criminal, Rudy Kurniawan—presently serving 10 years in prison, beginning in 2002—bamboozled wine experts and collectors in a dazzling series of counterfeit concoctions of wine bottles bearing the labels of the most exalted names from Burgundy and beyond. This is a true cautionary tale that underlines the importance of “provenance”—where and from whom a wine comes from—as well as they surprisingly malleable psyche of collectors.
A Spot at the Bar: Welcome to the Everleigh/The Act of Good Drinking in 300 Recipes, Michael Madrusan & Zara Young Hardie Grant/Chronicle Books, March 2017, $18.00 Michael Madrusan, owner of The Everleigh, in Melbourne, Australia, and co-founder of Milk & Honey of New York City, along with his writing partner Zara Young, have blended a stunning array of 300 cocktails and graceful storytelling covering all manner of drink from seductive aperitifs to post-prandial elixirs. Recipes lean toward classic and transport the reader back to the golden era of elegant drinking.
The Bloody Mary, Brian Bartels Ten Speed Press, March 2017, $18.99 With due credit to cocktail historian Jeffrey Pogash’s elegantly written Bloody Mary, privately printed in 2012, Brian Bartles carries the story forward in entertaining detail, with scores of anecdotes and recipes for this iconic drink—one which is the author states is “universally loved.”
Mezcal: The History, Craft & Cocktails of the World’s Ultimate Artisanal Spirit, Emma Janzen Voyageur Press, July 2017, $25.00 Mezcal is a booming category these days, emerging from the shadow of Mexico’s signature spirit, tequila. Drinks journalist Emma Janzen prefers her mezcal neat and her prose is too. Janzen dishes out an authoritative primer on the mezcal’s history and production (distinct from tequila). She also interviews producers and shares some tempting cocktail recipes, adding in a convenient index of leading mezcal bars.
The Dirty Guide to Wine: Following Flavor from Ground to Glass, Alice Feiring, with Pascaline Lepeltier MS Countryman Press, June 2017, $24.95 Who knew that the story of dirt could be so fascinating? While a primer on wine and winemaking, Feiring literally gets her hands dirty as she digs into the critical importance of soil, alongside celebrated sommelier Pascaline Lepeltier. For wine geeks and amateurs alike, the Dirty Guide will also bring the reader up to speed on natural wines as a category and movement.
Rum Curious: The Indispensable Tasting Guide to the World’s Spirit By Fred Minnick Voyageur Press, June 2017, $25.00 Fred Minnick, who wrote the award-winning Whiskey Women, has authoritatively addressed the complex history of rum, from artisanal roots to today’s globe-spanning popularity. Besides classic and new recipes, Minnick offers a detailed listing of producers and production techniques useful to any rum enthusiast. Chances are most readers had no idea rum could be so varied—in style, aging, and usage.
The Drinkable Globe: The Indispensable Guide to the Wide World of Booze By Jeff Cioletti Turner Publishing, November 2017, $19.95 Proposing that the best way to experience the world is through a glass filled with something good, veteran drinks journalist Jeff Cioletti goes on a liquid journey, examining the tradition, consumption, and production of alcohol on every continent. The reader is encouraged to come along vicariously
Next Gen Shall Be Served
Next Gen Z’ers, millennials transform merchant realities & practices
Raised with cellphones and video games, too busy to visit the mall, and averse to buying the same brands their parents drink, Gen Z’ers and Millennials are challenging merchants to up their game and rethink how best to profit from these digital-savvy customers.
“Younger customers come into our stores and check this or that brand on their smart phone,” says Vince Trunzo, co-owner of Affiliated Consulting, which oversees marketing for a co-op of 350 Armanetti, Cardinal and Miska wine and liquor stores in Illinois. He adds, “They want a discovery wine or spirit they can tell their friends about—and post, too.”
Simply put, we are entering a new demographic reality. Millennials—those born in the early 1980s—and Gen Z’ers— still younger consumers born in the mid-1990s—today comprise the biggest group of consumers in the U.S., having overtaken aging Baby Boomers in sheer numbers: Gen Z’ers and Millennials total more than 75-to-100 million consumers, according to research reported by the Wine Market Council.
These legal-drinking-age (LDA) consumers pose a host of challenges and opportunities to independent on- and off-premise operators. Do you need to be a social media expert? What do they really like to drink? Which brands appeal to them? And where can an operator turn to for help?
David Jabour, President of Twin Liquors, an 80+-store group in Texas, observes, “Gen Z’ers and Millennials are not brand loyal compared to Baby Boomers and older customers. It’s difficult if you are a brand owner, because Gen Z and Millennials want to experiment.” On the other hand, while not necessarily loyal, these consumers are still attracted to brands. “We focus on national brands, not private labels, in all our stores,” adds Jabour. “A brand with a story is critical. Younger consumers like authenticity.”
“Younger consumers coming out of college are experimenting with all sorts of spirits and wines,” says David Churchill, owner of Churchill’s Wine & Spirits in Bridgehampton, NY. But he, too, sees some brands being warmly embraced: “Vodka is a blank canvas, and Tito’s is on fire, as it’s so easy to mix. Reds like Josh or Joel Gott, priced between $15-$20 are also popular with younger customers, as are the 3-liter Bota Box varietals like Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc.”
Some retailers report success going the opposite direction from recognizable brands. In Williamsburg, Brooklyn, for Chris Bordeaux, Manager of Uva Wines & Spirits, it’s all about small producers, whether it is natural wines or local spirits. Echoing the famous quote from Field of Dreams, Bordeaux asserts: “If you carry natural wines, they will come.” Bordeaux says his younger customers are especially enthusiastic about so-called “orange” wines—made when white grapes are given extended maceration and skin contact, ranging in price from $14-$90, including Cantina Giardino for $30 a bottle. Bordeaux also sells a great deal of natural wine, with such wines’ minimal intervention providing extra appeal. It’s predominantly local in terms of spirits brands at Uva. Says Truzo of the Armanetti, Cardinal and Miska store group, “We see Millennials drinking more and more premium spirits and wines, so in all our social media communications we make sure that we call attention to premium discovery wines and spirits.”
Value in the Well
As if Millennials and Gen Z’ers were not chameleonic enough in terms of brand-buying attitudes, it seems that on-premise these consumers are even apt to adjust their stripes over the course of an evening. Raymond C. “RC” Faigle, owner of the Orange Crate bar in Syracuse, NY, whose clientele is anchored by nearby Syracuse University, says, “Our customers, 50/50 men and women, may start off ordering Tito’s, Grey Goose, Bacardi or Patron at about $7-$9.50, but move later in the evening to our well brands, which are priced lower at $4.50 or $5.”
George Seibel, owner of the Dark Horse Tavern in Cortland, NY, home to the Cortland State University of New York (SUNY Cortland), says he works closely with his son, Vincent, who is the establishment’s manager, to make sure selection and pricing are correct and appealing to his collegiate customers. Says Vincent Seibel, “From 21-22, it’s all about beer from Bud Light at $4-$10 a pitcher; in spirits, it’s flavored vodka, a well brand with cranberry, popular with both men and women, sells for $4.50 and Tito’s for $5.50 or $6, or Jim Beam Red Stag Black Cherry for $4.50 or $5, which is popular with both women and men.”
Summing up, “It’s all about pricing, it’s all about well brands,” says Amber Hubbard, Bacardi On-Premise Sales Manager, Western New York, Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits. At the same time, Hubbard adds, “Gen Z’ers and Millennials are increasingly gravitating to classic, premium pours like Bacardi, Patrón and Heaven Hill, so the opportunity for operators to upsell is always there.”
10 TIPS FOR INDEPENDENT MERCHANTS & OWNERS
- Leave Your Comfort Zone – Bring In New Spirits/Wines
- Feature Brands With An Authentic Story and Heritage
- Go Local: Search Out Home-grown Wines and Spirits
- Add New Categories – Natural Wines, Obscure Varietals
- Be Sensitive to Pricing – Be Fair, Affordable & Offer Value
- Host Tastings of Your Newest Discovery Wines & Spirits
- Reach Out and Tie In with Slow Food & Culinary Groups
- Feature The Classics – What Goes Around, Comes Around!
- Ask Your Youngest Employees For Ideas – In-Store to Online
- Go Beyond Facebook/Twitter: Try Instagram, Pintrest
Note: The author would like to thank the Editors of Beverage Media Magazine for permission to post this story. David Lincoln Ross
Coffee Infuses New Products to Creative Cocktails
JAVA JOINS THE PARTY, so move over Tia Maria, make way Kahlua. In the last few years, a new generation of coffee-infused spirits, liqueurs, beers, and, yes, even caffeinated wines, are waking up mixologists and merchants to new flavor possibilities.
While classic coffee-infused liqueurs noted above and relative newcomers like Patrón XO Café (introduced in 2012) merit prime shelf space and prominent back-bar placements, a crop of audaciously named upstarts include: Death Wish Coffee Vodka, Albany Distilling Co., NY; BOMB, a coffee-infused ale from Prairie Artisan Ales, Tulsa, OK; Café Agave Mocha, a 13.8% abv coffee-flavored creamer by Café Agave, San Diego, CA; Firelit Coffee Spirits Liqueur, Firelit Spirits, San Francisco, CA; Dark-Natural Coffee Liqueur, Prairie Wolf Spirits, Guthrie OK; Cabernet Coffee Espresso and Chardonnay Coffee Cappuccino from Friends Fun Wine, Aventura, FL; and Molinari Café’s new wine-infused coffee roast, whose beans (before roasting) are immersed in a red wine blend sourced from Napa, CA, among others.
Assessing coffee-driven innovation percolating through spirits, beer and wine, Giorgio Milos, Master Barista, illy caffe North America, a leading Italian premium coffee purveyor, says, “Mixologists, distillers and brewers are always looking for new ingredients and finally they realized that coffee is very versatile.”
Zach Prichard, Owner, Prairie Artisan Ales, agrees, adding: “Coffee-beers have been around for at least a generation, but brewers have been using coffee in more ways recently, especially with lighter styles like IPA, sours and seasonals.”
Following a trip to New Orleans where he enjoyed chicory-flavored coffee, Dave Smith, Head Distiller, St. George Artisan Spirits, Alameda, CA, created NOLA Coffee Liqueur, a blend of French-roasted chicory, non-GMO corn-based spirits, organic cane sugar, Madagascar vanilla bean, and coffee from Jewel Box Coffee Roasters in Oakland. While St. George was established in 1982, NOLA is relatively new to its portfolio, says Smith; launched in 2014, it has a SRP of $35.
Grounds “Know No Bounds”
Zach Brinley, Chief Bootlegger, Brinley Gold Shipwreck Rum, Atlantic Highlands, NJ, which markets its Shipwreck Coffee-flavored Rum from St. Kitts, says, “The craft revolution in spirits, wine and beer knows no bounds, and coffee is now entering this transformation.”
In 2016, Kobrick Coffee Co., a Jersey City, NJ-based roaster founded in 1920, opened a café Manhattan’s Meatpacking District that serves a variety coffee-infused cocktails. It’s been thronged since day one, according to Samuel Ta, Head Barista, who says one of bar’s best-sellers is the “Loca Mocha”, a cocktail comprised of Ancho Chile liqueur, Jameson Irish whiskey, chocolate milk, cold-brewed Kobrick coffee, and Hella aromatic bitters. Another top pick is the “Marin Boulevardier”, made of Four Roses Bourbon, Campari, Contratto Rosso, Kyoto-dripped, single-origin Burundi Rugoza coffee.
Adds Scott Kobrick, Vice President and a fourth-generation member of the Kobrick family: “In opening in Manhattan, we encouraged our baristas to be innovative in creating signature cocktails. We are extremely happy with our growing following.”
Obtaining Ideal Shelf Positioning
What is the best way to merchandise these assorted coffee-inspired brands? Brinley suggests one key advantage: “We would do better if our Shipwreck Coffee Rum were positioned next to Kahlua and Tia Maria, instead of in the rum section.” In other words, merchants might consider re-shelving these diverse coffee-related brands into a dedicated “coffee corner” of a store.
Gary Fisch, Owner and CEO, Gary’s Wine and Marketplace, with four locations in New Jersey, says: “Zach Brinley’s suggestion makes sense. In fact, I’m going to start grouping all my coffee-infused spirits from Van Gogh Espresso Vodka to Patrón XO Café to Shipwreck Coffee Rum in my stores; it’s a great idea.”
Editor’s Note: The author would like to thank Beverage Media for permission to run this article, which appears in the May 2017 issue of Beverage Media Magazine.
Premium coffees perk up midscale segment
Driven by ever-more-discerning American coffee drinkers demanding a better cup of joe, midscale lodging groups are upgrading to premium brews as never before, as reported in Hotel Management Magazine, which was posted February 28, 2017.
Senior hotel, food-and-beverage and coffee company executives say they are focused on everything from improving lobby coffee service to unlocking new revenue streams to enhancing the guest experience via a flavorful brew served as a complimentary amenity. Such innovation and change are clear signals that premium coffee has gained ground and penetrated the midscale lodging tier in ways unimaginable even five years ago. And, fortuitously for midscale hotel owners, the costs in climbing the ladder of coffee quality are surprisingly slight, as little as a penny or pennies on the dollar.
“Within the midscale tier, up until the last three or four years, coffee was just coffee and any coffee would do, but now, thanks to Starbucks and other premium coffee roasters, our guests are more interested than ever in a flavor, a special roast and a better cup of coffee,” said David Neves, corporate director of F&B for IHG.
To implement an upgraded coffee service, Neves led an intensive two-year study researching coffee. He polled guests, conducted blind taste tests and solicited input from coffee purveyors. Ultimately, IHG’s Holiday Inn and Holiday Inn Express brands selected Keurig Green Mountain and Royal Cup Coffee and Tea as their two partners at more than 3,000 locations in North America.
“We were the first in our category to mandate Keurig K-Cup equipment in all our Holiday Inn and Holiday Inn Express locations across the United States and Canada,” Neves said, noting that the upgraded coffee is a free amenity at every property.
“The increase in quality of a core beverage like coffee has become a differentiator to both catering sales managers and our clients that frequent our properties,” said Caroline Czirr, VP of brand management for Red Lion Hotels Corporation. “Coffee has become a brand differentiator and a profit center in our Hotel RL properties that have a full-service coffee bar. We offer a complimentary cup of coffee at our Red Lion Hotels, Red Lion Inns and Suites and GuestHouse every day to our hotel guests.”
While premium coffees, espressos, lattes and cold brews—often accompanied by individualized coffee service from in-house baristas—have been present, featured and served within the luxury, upper-upscale, upscale and upper-midscale hotel segments for some time, demand for specialty coffee is fast percolating through the midscale lodging tier. From lobby to room, the “premiumization of coffee” trend is on full display at Wyndham Hotel Group’s Baymont Inn & Suites, Days Inn, Howard Johnson, Super 8 and Travelodge brands, among others, said Lisa Checchio, Wyndham Hotel Group’s VP of brand marketing.
According to Mark Southern, director of product innovation, F&B for Hilton, specialty and premium coffees are going to tip over to the mainstream sooner than later in terms of midscale brands. At Hilton’s new Tru midscale brand, Italian coffee purveyor Lavazza will be served exclusively. Southern said that Hilton likewise offers premium coffee service at its Hilton Garden Inn, Homewood Suites and Home2 Suites, among other company brands.
Viewing U.S. coffee trends over the past 20 years, Michelle Burns, SVP of channel development, branded solutions for Starbucks Coffee Company, said there is a growing sophistication among U.S. coffee drinkers.
“In viewing the journey of coffee, what is fantastic is the breadth of what the lodging industry has achieved,” she said. According to Burns, Starbucks is now rolling out on a national basis its Seattle’s Best Coffee liquid concentrate in half-gallon containers. Designed to target the company’s lodging, convention and hospitality customers, the concentrate can serve up to 790 five-ounce servings.
“We are seeing the same passion for morning beverages as we’ve seen for evening beverages,” said Toni Stoeckl, VP of select brands for Marriott International, which includes Aloft, Element, AC and Moxy. “You are seeing the globalization of a European passion for coffee. Ten or 15 years ago you would not have seen this level of interest in the U.S. in provenance, in its quality and the story behind a particular coffee.”
At Moxy, Nespresso is featured in the lobby as a free “grab and go,” while at Elements, Starbucks is featured along with breakfast in the lobby.
Coffee appreciation among Americans is very much in evidence among one of the country’s most influential, and now largest, demographic groups: millennials. Prompted by growing numbers of coffee-savvy millennials staying at midscale properties, coffee premiumization at midscale brands is very much the order of the day.
“Coffee is being driven by millennials; they’re a most powerful cohort,” said Shelly Tallabas, director of customer and market insights with Farmer Brothers Coffee. Farmer Brothers works with scores of chain and independent hoteliers across all lodging segments, according to Tallabas, and offers a range of coffee and teas from branded coffees to specialty brews.
And, as with many other roasters large and small, Tallabas said the company goes to much effort to call attention to and broadcast its ethical sourcing and list of sustainable practices, up and down its supply chain. Noting a growing appreciation in this demographic for varietal wines, craft beers and authentic, artisanal spirits, Tallabas added, “Millennials are much more knowledgeable about premium and specialty coffees than previous generations.”
For all the focus on elevating the guest experience and, for some operators, offering better coffee grades as a free amenity as part of that strategy, the cost of implementing a coffee upgrade to midscale lodging owners and franchisees is minimal. As a general rule, the cost to a typical midscale hotel for free breakfast and coffee service in the morning comes to about 4 percent a year in a property’s overall operational expenses, with coffee’s share much less than 1 percent, IHG’s Neves said.
In a hypothetical case, if the property is paying $3 a pound for coffee, this comes out to a penny or less when calculating a hotel’s overall annual operating costs. However, if a hotel brand is paying $10 a pound for an ultra-premium coffee, then it’s a different story for the operator, Neves said, which would likely be for a luxury or upper-upscale hotel.
EDITOR’S NOTE: The author wishes to thank the Editors of Hotel Management Magazine for permission to reprint this article.
Crus’ing to New Prominence
CRU GAMAYS GAIN RESPECT
By David Lincoln Ross
A perfect storm of positive marketplace trends is boosting the 10 crus of Beaujolais to new prominence and popularity. Merchants, restaurateurs and somms, together with customers, are definitely taking notice of the wines’ intrinsic quality/value appeal.
Long in the shadow of Beaujolais Nouveau, the 10 crus of Beaujolais—Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly, Chiroubles, Chénas, Fleurie, Juliénas, Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent, Régnié and Saint-Amour—posted a robust 63% sales gain in the U.S. during the first six months of 2016 versus the same period in 2015, according to French Agriculture ministry data.
Raj Vaidya, Wine Director, Restaurant Daniel, New York, says, “Beaujolais crus offer incredible bang for buck.” Daniel’s wine list features a baker’s dozen of crus, including a 2001 Domaine de Vissoux, “Garants”, Fleurie, for $95 and a 2009, Domaine Barbet, Saint-Amour, for $75. He adds, “Beaujolais crus also age better than many realize, which is why I love to list some older vintages.”
Veronica Litton, Wine Director, Crown Wine & Liquors, a 12-store group based in Miami, identifies another key reason behind the growing interest in crus Beaujolais: “We’ve all seen what Burgundy pricing has been in the last three vintages, with shortages, so we’ve enhanced our cru Beaujolais selections; I am proud to say Crown features all 10 crus.”
Georges Dubœuf, founder of Les Vins de Georges Dubœuf, Romananche-Thorins, France, and renowned for promoting Beaujolais since the early 1960s, observed he sees better opportunities than ever for his crus in the U.S. “Our exports of crus Beaujolais are up this year, and our importer, distributors and merchants and sommeliers are passing on the message to consumers of their incredible value in the world of wine.”
Dennis Kreps, co-owner of Quintessential Wines, Napa, California, and importer of Dubœuf’s portfolio, says, “One of the key points to effectively selling Georges Dubœuf’s Cru Domaine and Château wines is location. The wines represent the nuances of “place” just as much as Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits, at very approachable prices.”
Jason Jacobeit, Wine Director, Bâtard, New York, concurs. “A guest recently asked without opening the list, ‘Do you have any Côte de Py?’ I had several vintages of Foillard (Morgon) for him, luckily. But that sort of morcellated plot-by-plot conceptualization has been a mindset previously reserved solely for the Côte d’Or.”
J.R. Thomason of Flatiron Wine & Spirits, New York, says, “A Beaujolais Cru is cheaper than Burgundy, and at $20 you can have a terroir-driven Chenas or Saint-Amour, and tell the difference.”
Trey Beffa, co-owner of K&L Wine Merchants, with three stores in San Francisco, which stocks a sizeable number of cru Beaujolais from smaller producers, adds, “Younger winemakers in Beaujolais are pursuing sustainable farming and introducing natural or organic, and/or bio-dynamic wines; this is stimulating our customers to try these new cru wines.”
And, as attention around Beaujolais nouveau dispels after the holidays, this has opened the door to permit greater focus in the trade on cru Beaujolais offerings, says Pascal F. Salvadori, Vice President, Senior Portfolio Manager & Director of Education, Esprit du Vin (Palm Bay), which represents Château de La Chaize from Brouilly.
The Gamay grape’s intrinsic food friendliness also signals a new, more sustained year-round opportunity to encourage trial and upselling to Beaujolais crus.
Anthony Cohen, Brand Manager, French & European Estates, Frederick Wildman and Sons, New York, importer of three producers of Beaujolais, including crus from Château Fuissé, Domaine Labruyère and Stéphane Aviron, says “Beaujolais is Lyon,” referring to the food capital of France, where a roast chicken, pommes frites and a Beaujolais are revered as a gastronomic holy trinity. Cohen adds, “Crus are food friendly, fruity, not overpowering, yet complex.”
Jules Dressner, co-owner of Louis/Dressner, a New York importer of seven cru Beaujolais producers, says: “Beaujolais is fun and affordable, and people finally figured this out. But they can also be complex and terroir-centric (ie. the Cru bottlings), so you can geek out to them. It’s the best of both worlds.”
Noting the versatility of Beaujolais crus, Belinda Chang, Partner, Maple & Ash, a top Chicago restaurant, says, “We are steering our customers away from the traditional steakhouse wines that they might typically order (Napa Cabernet) and encouraging them to enjoy more universally food friendly wine, which accommodate the seafood eaters at the table as well.”
All in all, thanks to a confluence of market trends, there’s no better time than now to introduce customers to the 10 distinctive, terroir-driven crus of Beaujolais.
The author wishes to thank Beverage Media for permission to adapt this article from its January 2017 issue on pp. 22-23.
Three St. Paul de Vence Restaurants–
When Fine Art Meets Les Arts de la Table à la Provençale
by David Lincoln Ross
Fine Art Meets Les Arts de la Table à la Provençale at three St. Paul de Vence restaurants. A mere half-mile from the chic hill town of St. Paul de Vence, and only 12 miles from Nice, the Foundation Maeght is a world-renowned museum of 20th and 21st century art and sculpture. Nearby you will find three St. Paul de Vence restaurants.
The Maeght is set amid towering umbrella pines, well-manicured lawns and outdoor plazas all studded with abstract sculpture, the museum’s permanent collection features artworks and paintings by Jean Arp, Pierre Bonnard, Georges Braque, Alexander Calder, Marc Chagall, Wassily Kandinsky, Ellsworth Kelly, Juan Miro, Henry Moore, and Pablo Picasso, among others. The tranquil setting and stellar museum were established and endowed by famed Niçoise art dealers Marguerite and Aimé Maeght in 1964 and annually attracts more than 200,000 visitors.
Michelin’s Red Guide invokes a famous expression, “vaut le voyage” or ‘worth the trip’, when its anonymous reviewers wish to call a traveler’s attention to three-star gastronomic temples of French haute cuisine. One could truthfully apply this three-word commendation to St. Paul de Vence itself, not only in terms of all the seductive art on display, but also owing to the presence of three restaurants in town where one can eat reasonably well, if not quite at the level of Michelin’s highest star-studded accolade.
Here are three St. Paul de Vence restaurants are recommended, addresses where each chef ably draws upon the sheer variety fresh seafood and crustaceans from the Mediterranean; locally raised pork, beef and lamb; fowl from guinea hens to rare breeds of chickens; wild game, notably boar; a variety of olive- and garlic-based tapenades; local vegetables and herbs; and fruit from ripe white peaches to succulent black cherries. And with any meal, don’t miss sampling a chilled rosé wine from one of the dozens of nearby estates—especially those labels from the surrounding Côtes de Provence appellation, think quenchable pinks from Château de Pourcieux to Domaine Ott to Rock Angel from Château d’Esclans. Over two days—one lunch and dinner the first day, and lunch the next afternoon—your correspondent and wife, who is my official food photographer, enjoyed dining at these three spots.
Le Vieux Moulin
Perched above a strategic turn on the road uphill to Vence, and just outside St. Paul de Vence’s 17th century fortified gate, Le Vieux Moulin was in its day a dual-purpose wheat-and-olive oil mill, all powered by an ancient aqueduct. Proof? A massive gristmill is right inside the restaurant’s entrance next to the bar, and at the back of the room, a huge olive oil press resides, whose wooden pressoir is raised and seemingly poised to receive and crush the next harvest. Whether you sit on the terrace, or at a table inside, Chef de cuisine Olivier Depardieu – no relation to the French actor – serves up a classic Provençale dishes.
At lunch, after an amuse bouche of rich, black olive tapenade accompanied by gressins, or thin breadsticks, your correspondent, accompanied by his wife, shared pan-sautéed squids, artichokes seasoned with parsley and garlic sauce, resting on a rocket (arugula) salad to begin, followed by two different risotto dishes, one starring five sweet scallops (coquilles St. Jacques), matched with a quintet of perfectly fried, crispy-thin slices of spicy chorizo sausage; the other main featured three large prawns (crevettes), graced with lightly fried artichoke wedges. Each delicious risotto dish was perfectly creamy and just slighty al dente or crunchy in texture.
Desserts looked too good to resist, so we plumped for an apricot clafoutis, an egg custard/fruit concoction, as well as a trio of peach, strawberry and chocolate sorbets, the latter served at their ideal temperature, soft and effortlessly ‘spoonable’. Le Vieux Moulin’s wine list is strong on local rosés and robust southern Rhône reds and fragrant whites; service was correct and friendly, but not overly so. Reservations are recommended.
Le Vieux Moulin, Tel: 04 93 58 36 76, St. Paul de Vence, France
This charming indoor/outdoor restaurant is named after a magnificent, centuries-old linden tree that stands proudly like a silent sentry guarding the restaurant’s wide terrace situated on the town’s ramparts. (See photo.) Indeed only steps from the town’s walled fortress designed by Sébastien Vauban (1633-1707), the tree’s expanse effortlessly covers most of the tables. Looking south from a terrace table, one can see all the way to the coast on a clear day.
Under Chef de cuisine Bastien Hodé, Le Tilleul features arguably the best cooking in town, exceeding in creativity, presentation and skill even the far more celebrated La Colombe d’Or, which is located almost directly below the ramparts and terrace dominated by the linden tree.
At dinner, we quickly downed a summery ‘shot’ of chilled, blended watermelon and heirloom tomato juice; this refreshing potion offered a mouth-watering mix of sweetness and zingy acidity as our amuse-bouche. (See photo.) Then we shared a summer salad of aged Serrano ham on a bed arugula, punctuated by tiny red and yellow cherry tomatoes, and topped with fresh sliced Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. (See photo.) Having lunched on scallops at lunch, for my main course, I ordered a gambas risotto dish that surpassed in creaminess my midday risotto, with the giant shrimp teaming with mild sea-salty tenderness. (See photo.) Graced with paper-thin, shavings of peppery red radish and generous dollops of Parmigiano-Reggiano flakes, the dish offered forkfuls of genuine pleasure when complemented by a bone-dry rosé. My wife ordered a tender, perfectly cooked supreme de volaille (chicken) accompanied by Robuchon-worthy mashed potatoes—read virtually equal rations of butter to tuber!
We ended our evening with a citron sorbet, bracing, almost tart as fresh lemon juice but not quite owing to the addition of not too much sugar sweetness, complemented by a thin sugar-butter gaufrette or waffle-like biscuit that served as a cooling end to a hot, but wonderfully art-filled day. Reservations are a must for both lunch and dinner, as we saw many couples, families and groups sadly turned away.
Le Tilleul, Tel: 04 93 32 80 36, St. Paul de Vence, France
La Colombe d’Or
Long esteemed by film icons (Francois Truffaut), legendary artists (Pablo Picasso) and literary lions (F. Scott Fitzgerald), Le Colombe d’Or hotel boasts the privacy these celebrities crave and a singularly amazing, private art collection dating back to the 1920s. (See photos of rebus sign and garden dining area.) It was an era when the hotel’s founder, Paul Roux—a Provençal native with a fondness for art who owned the quirky bar-cum-auberge—befriended, boarded for free and spotted money to an assortment of poor, but talent rich artists at the bar and restaurant in exchange for their paintings. So came to be a remarkable, museum-quality collection of paintings that may be freely viewed in the dining rooms, bedrooms, pool area and its outdoor garden restaurant, where you are as likely to see a brilliant canvas by Miro, Picasso, Braque as a drawing or sculpture by Chagall, Calder or Matisse. Today Paul’s grandson, François, and his wife, Danièle, run La Colombe d’Or.
Given this introduction, one would hope, even expect, a gifted cuisine nearly as elevated as the art on display. After all artists—and hoteliers—have been known to worship Dionysus, the Greek god of wine, as much as Aphrodite, the goddess of love and pleasure. Alas, Demeter, the goddess of nourishment, seems to have neglected La Colombe d’Or’s kitchen. In a word, some dishes deliver, and do so heartily and generously, but others miss the mark by a wide margin.
Our experience there confirms the hotel-restaurant’s reputational cliché: Comfortable, private, high-priced and afforded with an art collection vastly superior to its cuisine. We lunched on a hot day in early July, after some delicious olives to enjoy while reviewing the vastly oversized menu, I ordered a selection crudités, which proved as abundant as any market day basket loaded to feed six! (See photo.)
Delving in required a lot of work, which I would have preferred a commis (a lower-level kitchen team member) to do in the kitchen than I working through all the slicing, dicing and paring. A melon appetizer ordered by my wife was similarly ‘deconstructed’, in that, once again, the diner was obliged to do most of the work in cutting, combining and re-constructing the aged ham (was it Serrano? no telling) and with do-it-yourself melon chunks.
For our main course, plat in French, my wife ordered quenelles de saumon (salmon quenelles) that we both tasted and agreed it was not as refined, light and molten as one should have expected; besides its rough, granular texture, it lacked requisite flavor, in both the salmon itself, not to mention its bland-tasting sauce.
I had much better luck when I ordered braised rabbit and tagliatelle noodles, whose dark, mushroom-enriched sauce exploded with forest-floor, red wine and gamy animal flavors. This was a profoundly satisfying dish and married perfectly with a bottle of brut rosé Champagne made exclusively for the hotel by Champagne Cattier in Chigny-Les-Roses in the appellation’s Montagne de Reims sub-region.
All we could think of for dessert was La Colombe d’Or’s house specialty, a toothsome almond tarte, whose dazzling flower petal frame was as simply entertaining as the evocative colors of Provence. (See photo.)
Reservations here should be made well in advance, and be sure to wander through the downstairs rooms of this celebrated inn with its world-class art collection.
La Colombe d’Or, 04 93 32 80 02, St. Paul de Vence, France
From one of the world’s loftiest vineyard regions comes an aromatic, tangy tipple called Torrontés (tor-ohn-TEZ) wine.
It’s known as Argentina’s signature white and the Cafayete Valley in far northwest Salta province—ranging from 6,000-10,000 feet in elevation—is the source of some of the best Torrontés grapes. Farther south, the variety is also widely planted in and around Mendoza, a place already familiar to many Americans.
While initially in the shadow of surging Malbecs from Mendoza, Torrontés has aimed to become an affordable alternative to favorites like Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc. Alberto Arizu Jr., Commercial Director of Bodega Luigi Bosca in Mendoza, Argentina, (imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons), says: “I think there is a greater consumer demand in the U.S. for more fresh, aromatic and dry white wines.” Arizu adds, “The recognition of Malbec and good performance of Argentine wines helped the Torrontés variety.”
But it has been a jagged ascent. In the last decade sales were buffeted by difficult economic conditions in Argentina and adverse exchange rates. This led to a see-saw in sales: Exports of Torrontés to the U.S. swung from 45,000 cases in 2005 to a high of 268,000 cases in 2011, followed by a steep downturn to 115,000 cases in 2014. Sales, now, are on the upswing, rising 3.5% to 119,000 cases in 2015, reports Magdelena Pecse, Director of Marketing and Communications, Wines of Argentina.
Torrentés Fits Right In
“Torrontés is great for the summertime,” asserts Brian Bowman, Beverage Director, Sun Singer Wine & Spirits in Champaign-Urbana, IL. “Around Mother’s Day, we’ll do a tasting of four-to-six wines, including a Torrontés, to build sales.” He notes the store currently carries three Torrontés: Trivento Amado Sur at $13.99, Le Madrid at $14.99 and Ernesto Catena Padrillos at $10.99.
Julia Nader, Director of Marketing for E. & J. Gallo Winery, importer of the Alamos line, says, “We know that there is a trend toward consumers embracing lighter white wines, like Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc, and Alamos Torrontés fits that profile very well.”
Marcy Whitman, SVP of Marketing & Brand Development at Palm Bay International, which imports the Callia and Killka brands, concurs: “We are seeing growing awareness among sommeliers, but Torrontés has yet to be discovered by a broader
Addressing that “discovery” challenge, Francine Kowalsky, Assistant VP, Director of Marketing, Frederick Wildman & Sons, which also imports Astica, La Linda and Michel Torino, advises: “Getting the consumer to sample the wine is one of the most powerful selling tools we have. The key is to do the tasting next to a stack of the wine so that the consumer can purchase right after tasting.”
At Century Liquor & Wines, Manager Jim Verhey notes, “Our Torrontés sales are consumer-driven.” He, too, advocates in-store sampling. Century currently sells Molinos Torrontés for $6 a bottle, as part of the store’s half-dozen wines featured at that bargain price; Molinos is also sold online via a dedicated $6 tab on the store’s homepage. Century also stocks Torrontés wines from Alamos, Crios and Michel Torino.
Torrentés: Food Affinity
Fernando Navas, an Argentinian chef who owns Balvanera in New York City, says: “We train our staff to explain the attributes of Torrontés and how it pairs very well with our dishes, especially with our empanadas and octopus. We always have our guests try the Torrontés since it’s unusual to find it on many menus.” He adds, “We currently have Bodegas Nieto Senetiner Torrontés at $10 per glass and $40 per bottle.”
Noting the strong food association for Torrontés, at Tower Wine in Atlanta, Wine Manager John O’Brien comments, “Most of our Torrontés sales come from customers whose friends served the wine at a dinner party or had it a restaurant.” Tower currently offers Torrontés wines from Alamos, Crios and Colomé, each for under $15.
Summing up its versatile appeal, Adam Sager, VP, Winesellers Ltd., importer of Zuccardi and Chimango notes: “Merchants can use seasonality to offer an alternative crisp white like Torrontés rather than mainstream Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc or others. Torrontés also appeals to consumers who like fruitier wines.”
The author wishes to thank Beverage Media to publish this article, which appears in the June 2016 issue of the magazine.
Life Imitates Art: In “A FRENCH FINISH” by Robert Ross, a quirky crew of Harvard art historians re-creates a ‘fake’ Louis XVI desk and pass it off as the real thing.
My father wrote this award-winning mystery-adventure and it was a hit back in 1978 and is a wonderful yarn now available at Kindle!
Here, below, is the latest news about another such royal desk built for the Sun King, Louis XIV.
This extremely rare work is one of the very few pieces of furniture commissioned for Louis XIV’s use at Versailles. The folding-top desk, delivered in 1685, is made of oak and veneered with ebony and Brazilian rosewood. It is the work of Alexandre-Jean Oppenordt, the king’s ordinary cabinetmaker, and designer Jean Bérain the Elder, whose lively arabesques are particularly recognizable.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR: ROBERT ROSS
Before turning to writing novels, Robert Ross was a creative director at the Leo Burnett advertising agency. When he retired to Montserrat in the West Indies, he became fascinated with Leonardo da Vinci and learned everything he could about this brilliant inventor and artist and his era.
Each volume of this best-selling trio may be purchased on KINDLE.
Robert Ross, my dad, published this book in 1978. It earned the highly prized Edgar award from the Mystery Writers of America for an author’s first novel.
It is now available on Kindle.
In A French Finish, a retired Harvard art historian, Professor Emeritus Lewis Tewkesbury, with time on his hands, agrees to a crazy caper dreamt up by one of his former students, Nick Otter. Their audacious scheme: Create a perfect replica of King Louis XVI’s writing desk from the 18th century, build a bullet-proof back story concerning its ‘discovery’, and sell the forgery at auction to an unsuspecting buyer for millions. With a plot possessing more twists and turns than a woodworker’s drill bit, “A French Finish” combines insights into the arts of forgery along with ample dollops of art history, colorful characters, humor and high-jinks.
•ABOUT THE AUTHOR: ROBERT ROSS
Before turning to writing novels, Robert Ross was a creative director at the Leo Burnett advertising agency. When he retired to Montserrat in the West Indies, he became fascinated with Leonardo da Vinci and learned everything he could about this brilliant inventor and artist and his era.
On the island, he met Martin Woodhouse, creator of The Avengers television series, and they teamed up as co-authors to pen three adventure novels: The Medici Guns, The Medici Emerald and The Medici Hawks.
Each historical novel is set in Renaissance Italy with Leonardo Da Vinci cast as a kind of James Bond, utilizing one or more of his actual devices, from cannons and flying machines to submarines and other innovations, to solve a host of swashbuckling challenges and romantic escapades. His last novel, ”A French Finish,” won the Edgar Allan Poe Award for the best first mystery by a new writer in 1978.
Enjoy all four!